BACK ROADS OF NAYARIT
Through the Jungle to Hidden Beaches
Part 1
It is 8:35 am in paradise. Rincon de Guayabitos, Nayarit, Mexico. The day is beautiful there is not a cloud in the sky, Vicky, my pretty traveling companion and my partner in our Bed and Breakfast, and I are wearing shorts, which is the uniform of the day here in paradise. The jeep is packed with our lunch, coffee, drinks and groceries for the poor.
Our goal this morning is to visit some hidden beaches north of Platanitos, on the road to San Blas. For the past couple of years we have wanted to do this but with so many places to choose from we just didn't get around to it.
Off we go. Heading North from Guayabitos, we pit stop at the gas station, pass through fields of mango trees, tobacco plants, bananas and many other green things. Finally reaching Las Varas we turn left toward the coast. It is 9:06. Again we pass through green fields with the mountains off in the distant. We are reminded of our many trips to the coffee country in the distance. We soon pass through Zacualpan, a little farm town. Don't pass through here without stopping at the outdoor museum that contains a number of stones with petroglyphs that were dug up when the road was built. This was a center of an ancient civilization.
Since we have visited the museum a number of times before, we press on.
We pass through rolling hills and small villages. You can see the palms off in the distant that mark the miles of uninhabited beach that lies between Turtle beach and Boca de Chila, the old pirate cove. Someday I would like to drive this whole beach, which I estimate to be about 15 miles. Soon we come to Platanitos, a pretty little cove, nice swimming beach and the last true fishing village on this part of the coast.
We hear the government has big plans here so best see it before progress sets in. We stop for a coffee break. I roasted this coffee last night, let it set to allow the beans to mellow and ground them just before brewing at breakfast time. Great tasting. The beans for this morning's coffee came from El Malinal, an old European settlement dating from about 1800. They planted coffee and it is really good.
Here at Platanitos there are several Palapa huts on the beach that serve good fresh seafood. All freshly caught. The water is warm and if we had more time I would be in for a dip.
Just North of Platanitos there is a small beach that we would like to visit but have not found a road down. (Later after this was written we noted a new road someone has cut – another trip.) After coffee break we head north and just after topping the first rise we find a road going down. A little overgrown but passable. There is a cattle gate and we pass through. The road has really deep ruts and it is not quite dry from the rainy season. Soon the road forks and we take the left one. We come to an iron gate. It is unlocked and we pass through.
Now we are surrounded by jungle. It is very thick. There is an estuary just a few feet to our left. The road borders the water. We are in a green tunnel. We are brushing our way through. I can hardly see the road (more like a track). There is a tree down in front of us. It is not too thick and we soon cut through it with a machete. We both tug it over to the side of the road. We finally break out onto the beach. It is 10:30 A.M. Right in front of us is an abandoned brick home. It still has a Spanish style roof. Not large but someone went to the trouble of building it well. It appears that it was never finished before a storm got too it. The foundation is almost washed away.
The beach is just beautiful. There is a coconut grove. Just behind the beach and next to the house is a lake or estuary. There are no people here. Not even a footprint. The beach has a gentle slop, and the waves are mild. It would be good for swimming. The beach is less than a mile long. There is a rocky point on either side. It must be loaded with oysters.
A paradise lost. We drive down the beach. The sand is loose but we have no trouble in 4-wheel drive. We park and wander through the coconut grove. It is obvious that these coconuts have not been harvested for a long time. How can anyone not want a beautiful place like this? Why doesn't someone live here? All along this coast good clear drinking water can be found a few feet down, even though the sea is nearby.
The soil is fertile just a short distance from the beach. Fish from the ocean, oysters and lobsters from the rocks nearby. I imagine myself a Robinson Crusoe and stranded here, but with a pretty lady, which I have beside me. We noted wild bananas, limes and other fruit. I would even be able to have happy hour with a little fruit put into the eyes of the coconuts, which would ferment into Tuba in a few days. What more could I ask for. Farewell civilization.
Bringing myself back to real life we reboard the jeep and make our way back to the highway. There are still more beaches to see.
