Snowmachines lie idle in garages and carports. Snowboards and skis, pushed to the back of the closet, hibernate beneath a blanket of unused gear purchased in a depressed haze to stave off the heartbreak of a snowless winter. Dreams of epic descents flicker in the eyes of would-be backcountry mavens as they plot for the "big dump".
Unfortunately, the storm gods seem more reluctant than ever to bless the Interior with their wondrous bounty of white gold.
Local ski areas such as Moose Mountain, Birch Hill and Skiland, while offering a brief respite from snow withdrawal, are little more than a bitter tease the the truly powder addicted. Even favorite stashes are either lacking in groundcover or skied out by local zealots. This leaves only one recourse to the desperate: leave town. But where to go?
Alaska lacks a comprehensive journal for mountain users, so reports on weather, conditions and choice terrain are often to be had only through late night phone calls to distant friends. But with a little effort, I have managed to compile a semi-comprehensive overview of conditions around the state. Enjoy!
Alaska Range:
Broad Pass, on the south side of the Range near Cantwell, is fraught with excellent terrain for those willing to endure a little hardship and snowmachine exhaust. The best mountains are accessible on the east side of the Parks Highway over a mile or so of wide open flats, but lack of snow and high winds have left the nearer peaks scoured and inhospitable to thrill seekers.
Isabel Pass, where the Richardson passes through the Range near Paxson, is a favorite stomping ground for many Interior Alaskans. The many glaciers and creeks that penetrate the mountains here offer easy access to hikers from the highway. Isabel has suffered a similar fate to Broad Pass, with lots of overcast, windy days, but little new snow.
Talkeetna Range:
Hatcher's Pass, a monument to snow fanatics of every stripe, lies a short drive north of Wasilla and Palmer in the Matanuska Valley. Access is by snowmachine, snowcat or hiking from Hatcher's Pass Road, the upper portion of which is closed in the winter. There is even a road run on the lower portion that is typically packed with Mat-Su locals on good days.
Accommodations and cheap, hearty breakfasts are to be had at the Motherlode Lodge, at the base of the pass on the Palmer side. Glacier Snowcats offer half and full day packages, and deliver passengers to epic Government Peak, future site of the long awaited
Hatcher Pass all-season Resort, and oft-overlooked Archangel Valley.
A brief conversation with the proprietor of the Motherlode has revealed bad tidings for Hatcher's fans, though. Again, windy conditions and lack of snow cover have combined with variable temperatures to ensure that any outing in the Talkeetnas will be not only toilsome and disappointing, but dangerous to boot.
Chugach Range:
Some of the most popular lines in the state lie in the Chugach, one of the world's highest coastal ranges. Girdwood Valley itself hosts not only the ever popular Alyeska Resort, but numerous world-class backcountry descents, a heli service, and a thriving community of beacon-and-shovel equipped hardcores, all champing at the bit to get that next turn. Girdwood seems ideally positioned to trap weather from any direction, and often receives impressive snowfalls, even when other areas of the range are windswept and barren.
The snazzy Alyeska Prince Hotel, apparently built by Sebu Corporation to give Mr. Sebu's son something to do, boasts a variety of package deals for visitors. They can even arrange reservations for day outing with Chugach Powder Guides, the local heli outfit run by Olympian Tommy Moe and his dad. A day pass at Alyeska Resort runs $38.00, but only $32.00 with a state ID. Half-day passes are available at midday, and there is night skiing on weekends.
Recent reports indicate warm temperatures and chunky crud at lower elevations, but higher up, consistent snowfall has accumulated 18 to 24 inches of powder as of Thursday the twelfth. Skies have cleared, opening a window of opportunity to hikers and heli enthusiasts for memorable outings.
In the eastern Chugach, where the Richardson highway penetrates legendary Thompson Pass on its way to Valdez, the fruit is ripe for the picking. The endless variety of terrain here plays host to the world's finest extremists, and is playground to all manner of mountain users from around the globe. The World Extreme Ski Championships and King of the Hill snowboard regatta are held here on successive weeks at the beginning of April.
Every kind of contrivance for getting to the goods is represented here. You can take your pick from three guided helicopter operations, one of which also offers airplane landings on glacier bowls and saddles. Two or three unguided cat services charge fifteen to twenty dollars per trip, with deals for locals. Helis usually price day packages, but Alaska Backcountry Adventures sells single lifts at 35 to 75 bucks a pop, depending on whether you fly in the plane or helicopter, and when you get there. Hiking and snowmachine access is almost obscenely convenient, with some of the best routes starting right at the highway. There is also a road run on the switchback out of the pass to Valdez complete with rock drops and steeps, a welcome comfort on frequent weather days.
Accommodations are available at a price at Tsaina Lodge in the heart of the pass, or in Valdez at the few hotels there. High season is typically early March through the end of April, and until then most of the heliguides are in other parts of the globe, leaving the pass to nutball snowcat drivers and local dirtbag powder junkies.
Unlike last year's disappointing snowfall, Thompson seems to have no lack of coverage this winter, with more than fifty feet (yes, that's right) accumulated thus far, and no end in sight. Cherry cherry pow pow, Bro Bra!
Turnagain Pass:
On the South side of Turnagain Arm, the mountains of the Kenai Peninsula hold many secret powder stashes easily reached from the Seward Highway. The terrain here is segregated, so many popular routes are off-limits to snowmachines. This means hiking is the most common method of getting to popular spots such as Tincan Peak, so pack a lunch.
The Alaska Railroad's Ski Train is also a nice option, delivering skiers and boarders to hard to reach peaks on a section of track that runs through the wilderness east of the highway, called Grandview. Be prepared for winter camping and highly variable weather conditions.
Turnagain Pass is a hot spot right now, with lots of new snow at elevations, similar to conditions in Girdwood. This is where the cat and heli operators from Hatcher's Pass and Valdez are hanging out, so brush off your snowshoes and wide rides and go mix it up with the pros!
If you are planning a big mountain trip in an unpatrolled area, (i.e. anywhere but Alyeska) I urge you to educate yourself on avalanche safety and invest in an avalanche beacon, snow shovel and probe, and go with good friends you can trust to be similarly equipped. Practice using these devices until you are confident you can act effectively in the event of a slide. Know how to read the snow pack and don't take unnecessary risks. In the case of backcountry travel, discretion is definitely the better part of valor.
Lift services and lodges are the way to go for those who find winter hiking and camping tiresome,or don't have the time, but don't forget to make reservations well in advance. These businesses get booked up fast in the spring, but a little planning can eliminate a lot of hassle. As for me, I have seen the writing on the headwall. Don't look for me around town, because by the time you read this, I'll be Gooone, baby!
Alyeska Prince Hotel
Girdwood: 907-754-1111
Alaska Backcountry Adventures
Thompson Pass: 907-835-5608
Motherlode Lodge
Hatcher's Pass: 907-746-1464
Tsaina Lodge
Thompson Pass: 907-835-3500
Glacier Snowcats
Hatcher's Pass: 907-373-3118