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DRY CREEK-JOHNSON RIVER (1)
SPRING 2OO1
 
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UPRIVER RIDE

The snow was melting fast and the mud was making it's annual spring appearance so I thought a few days out of town at my favorite place in would be fun. Dry Creek is tucked against the north side of the Alaska Range between Delta Junction and Tok 150 miles southeast of Fairbanks and by hiding in the shadow of the mountains manages to stretch a couple of extra weeks out of winter.

My first concern was being able to drive all the way to Charlie's cabin but luck and an early start were on my side as my ol' truck crawled in the last 1/2 mile for the most part on top of a foot or so of crusty snow, broke thru in a couple of spots but the only effect beside a quickening heartbeat was very clean tires upon arrival. Alright, everything looks fine as usual which is nice considering the cabin had sat empty since Oct. As always a quick survey of the stovepipe, then start a fire and unpack. Couldn't help but notice the creek had way more overflow than I'd ever seen in 26 years of visits, this was confirmed by the locals. The creek out front of the cabin was smooth ice with no rocks poking thru and the overflow had even formed around back and came within 30 ft. of the back door. It was getting comfortable in the cabin by the time everything was unpacked and I'd settled in, being a beautiful warm (50F) day and I went for a short ride on the overflow ice of the creek. Wow, went up a ways and the ice was amazing, no rocks showing for almost a 1/4 mile stretch up and down stream. Kept my eye out for a place to look for water but nothing stood out so that would be taken care of later. The ice had a good rough surface except where the overflow was fresh so it was easy riding upstream and heading downstream I was able to ride further than I ever had before (over 3/4 mile) although it took a little walking were the ice was gone and the packed snow was soft. Afterwards I rode the rapidly softening trails over to visit old friends. Coming back I picked a route that stays in the shadows and almost made it without walking the bike. Back at the cabin I went for water and found a spot not to far up the creek where I could hear the water under the ice. 10 minutes of chopping and there was all the water for drinking, washing, cooking I'd need. Dinner, finished a Sue Grafton mystery and started a Stephen King and went to bed early for a early start.


Up at a little before 5 and after stoking the woodstove fire built a fire in the wood cookstove for coffee and later breakfast. It was clear and about 23F so I knew the trails to the river would be hard for hours. Had coffee and read a little, then cooking a big breakfast of rice and beans with eggs on the cookstove which brought back fond memories. I like to cook and cooking with a wood burring cookstove is great, plus on cold mornings it helps get the cabin warmed up, although in summer it can drive you out of the cabin from the heat. It's common to see an old wood cookstove set up outside for summer cooking. After breakfast I put everything together for the days ride, so nice to not think about the cold as it would be 25F-45F for the trip. I fired up the sauna so it would be hot when I got back. Knowing I'd be dealing with dirt-sand-mud and rocks for the first time in almost 7 months I had switched my snowtires for something more appropriate but stuck with the wide Sno-cat rims. Onto the trail and towards the river we go, great riding with a hard crunchy surface which made for a noisy ride. After watching fine powder snow being thrown up from the tires all winter the crusty snow from the trail was tossed up by my passing and lit by the low morning sun like uncut diamonds on the soles of my shoes. There are lots of trails out here but I was very familiar with all of them so made a couple of turns and was soon on Lynx Point trail which runs for a mile or two running East-West along the mountains before hooking onto a old trapping trail which runs North to the Alaska Hwy. and Johnson River.

This is a fun trail with a couple of short climbs which can be challenging on snow but they were snow free and frozen so I downshifted and flew up them. This trail winds thru the woods for a couple of miles and then a couple of short side trails and you're at the start of Sonny's trail which parallels the river for about 7 miles upstream/south towards the mountains. This is a great trail winter and summer but after a mile or so I turned around as the trail is exposed to the sun and I could see myself getting in there and then dealing with a punchy trail coming out. This turned out to be a good thing as it forced me to turn around and head for the river. Driving in the day before I'd checked out the river while crossing the bridge and knew where I wanted to get on. It was the usual spot but with the fickle nature of this river and the overflow you never know what you'll find year to year or even month to month. Thru a small gravel pit and then walked the bike down a short unpacked hill to the river. Now the real fun begins as it looked like I would be able to go upstream father than I'd ever gone before. I headed across the overflow ice towards the main channel which was open. In summer this is all sand and gravel bars with the main channel and sometime a couple of side channels taking a often haphazard course towards the mouth before merging with the mighty Tanana River a mile or two away. There were spots of open ground but the overflow ice was for the most part covering everything. Once at the river I turned upstream and started taking pictures and working my way towards the mountains keeping an eye open for ice bridges which would give me access to a huge area of river bottom a mile or so south of the bridge and around a corner where I never been before.

At the corner I had to follow the river all the way to the east bank and along a wide ledge. Clearing this the view really opened up and I could see where I had to keep on the east side for a 1/2 mile and then do the only bushwhacking of the ride. The river ran right along a short stretch of willows-alder with no ledge so I crashed thru 30-50 ft. of the brush and deep snow to come out on a area of ice bridges that allowed access to square miles of river bottom and spectacular views of the range. I could see a bluff miles away to the southwest and started working my way there.



It was really warming up by now and although breezy (which is the normal state of the riverbottom and the area in general) the sun took any possible bite out of the wind. After dealing with the cold for so many months it's hard to overstate how wonderful it is to not have the frigid air around you feel like a sentient presence that is somewhat accommodating as long as you never forget that a moments lapse of attention, judgment or plain old bad luck can allow it turn on you like a rabid pet.

As the bluff got closer the overflow began to give way to larger and larger areas of gravel bars. I tried to stay on the ice as long as possible as it's so much easier to negotiate. Finally close to the western edge of the riverbottom I got to practice rusty skills on and over mud, sand, rocks, plus mixtures of all these frozen and thawed with numerous side channel water crossings thrown in, in other words it was a blast. Mixed in with the joy of semi-technical riding was dismay at my bike getting dirty for the first time in about 7 months. After particularly muddy sections I'd ride to the river and dip the bike for a quick bath. Cleaned a couple of sections that made me smile with satisfaction at cleaning them and relief at not crashing and getting wet or at least dabbing and getting a bootfull of water.


(moose and bike tracks)

At the bluff looking upriver it appeared almost ice free for as far as I could see and as I'd been riding for almost 4 hours figured it was time to turn around and head back. I had gone a mile or so past the ice so I stayed close to my route out and got back to the ice after one last bike bath in the river. Due to the desire to cross the same ice bridges I stayed on the same general course as the trip out and soon found myself back at the spot where I had to bushwhack. It was a little easier as the path was somewhat broken from my first passage. Back in the saddle I headed towards a sunny bluff and leaving the bike on the ice scrambled up a little hillside and enjoyed a much appreciated lunch sitting in the sun, out of the wind and best of all with my ass on dry unfrozen moss. After lunch I followed my path back to the bridge along the river and could see where the tires were biting into the softening ice as opposed to the light tracks left on the colder-firmer ice during the trip out.

Finally back at the bridge and across to where I'd first dropped down to the river. The gravel pit was getting a little muddy and according to plan I went to the highway, pumped the tires up hard and rode the mile or so back to the gravel road and up it a few miles to the last section of snow covered trail. Here I left most of the air out of the tires to float in the last 1/2 mile over the now warm and very punchy trail. Alright, back at the cabin a little after 1pm (I'd left a little before 7am) to a cold beer after riding about 25 miles. Stoked the sauna and took my beer out to the front of the cabin and enjoyed a nice sunbath buck ass nekkid. After another beer took a killer sauna and regained some energy with a short read-nod. Afterwards I walked over to my old friends' cabin for dinner and a good visit. Coming home at about 10pm it didn't take long to climb into the loft and read myself to sleep as the light reluctantly faded and the stars came out.


(sauna)

The next day was for bringing in some wood, clearing some brush,reading, picture taking, sunbathing, another sauna and another dinner and visit next door. It was mostly a day of rest (an injured knee was acting up) to prepare for another ride the following day.

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